I have a few questions (as usual)

1) The screws on my skates seem to be getting looser, a lot of the screws don't screw in tight, they just keep turning when I try to screw them in, but when I went yesterday my skates seemed okay... The two screws on the heel of the skates are fine, the front ones don't go in tight...

Do I need to buy a new pair, is it even safe? They are the standard beginner type ones, cost about $150, the leather is still really strong, I'm sure they could last another year.

I don't have a lot of money, having to buy skates every year is kinda pricey...

2) What do you call a move when you do consecutive three turns? I have problems doing backward crosses, and the only way I can do them is by doing a forward one first, and then a backward one...


Thank you for all your help!

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starting at 28

The easiest way to fix the loose screws problem is to use different holes. You need to have three screws holding the toe plate and at least two holding the heel plate. If you don't have any holes that have not been used yet, and if the soles of your boots are stacked leather (looks like wood), then you can solve the problem with the screws by re-plugging the holes. Here are instructions from the Recreational Figure Skating FAQ:

"Take a piece of leather lace and cram it into the hole together with lots of leather or hide glue. If you don't have any leather laces, slice off a little piece of a wooden matchstick, put the matchstick into the hole, and replace the screw."

If you are doing two consecutive threes, then they are double threes. If you are doing more, and they are unchecked (flow directly, one to the next to the next), then the move is a twizzle. If the threes are checked and there are more than two, the move is very simply "consecutive threes".

I'm not sure what you mean by "backward crosses". Do you mean back crossovers? If so, I don't understand how you can even do a FXO followed by a BXO without some kind of turn, and it would seem more difficult to do it that way. If you are talking about a cross behind while skating forwards, that's another story.

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Referring to your last sentence, what are those 'cross-behinds' called?

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Do your blades have a permanent mounting - i.e. are there more than 3 screws in them? If not, ask at the rink if someone can fix them for you - usually one of the coaches do them, or they might do it in the shop.

Incidentally, are you planning to come and watch the Open Dance event at your rink a fortnight today? We'll be there, so if you come, do make yourself known!

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Mrs Redboots
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I love my computer because my friends live in it!
Ice dancers have lovely big curves!

When skating forwards, cross the free foot behind the skating foot, lifting the skating foot forwards to complete the move. When skating backwards, cross the free foot ahead of (behind the heel of) the skating foot, lifting the free foot forwards (of your body) to complete the move.

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This is also what you need to do if you've stripped the leather. You say that the leather is still in good shape -- are you talking about the leather that meets the blade or the leather around your foot? If the former is soft from water damage or age, you'll need to plug the hole.

You don't need new skates. The screw holes have been stripped, which means the leather is worn away and can't hold the screw in tightly. Take your skate to a pro shop and have them fix it. They will either put screws in different locations, or plug the hole and rescrew. Don't attempt to do this yourself. Blade mounting is a tricky business.

If it's an old pair of boots I'd recommend giving it a try yourself. You don't have much to lose, and becoming knowledgable in plugging holes and blade mounting is a worthwhile skill to learn. I tried it on my previous boots. It took a few tries but I eventually got it right.

Hi all, the holes are stripped... so three still screw in tight, but three do not.

The leather on the upper foot is still very solid, but the rink don't offer repairs, they said to contact a coach but i don't take lessons or anything.

I may ask tomorrow, but do repairs last a long time, costly?

These bots cost me about £90 15 months ago

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starting at 28

Another question, does anyone waterproof their skates? Is there a spray of some sort that will actually waterproof the screw holes screw areas as those are the bits that seems to accumulate moisture after a skating session

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starting at 28

Hmm, I believe that the guys who do my skates lined my blade and the screw holes with a type of silicone. It's done really well so far at preventing wood rot.

Sno-Seal is what you want. Directions come with it, but briefly, you heat the sole of the boot with a hair dryer, then apply the product, which comes in a little pouch like kechup and soy sauce do.

That's really odd, since skate soles and heels are not made of wood. They are stacked leather.

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It also comes in a jar -- I've actually never seen it in a pouch!

I don't know if you can get it in this country, though; my fitter "did" ours before putting on the blade, but then said ordinary wax polish was fine. I use Renapur leather balsam all over my skates (and my street shoes, too!). Marvellous stuff.

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Mrs Redboots
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I love my computer because my friends live in it!
Ice dancers have lovely big curves!

I'll add this into the boot modification portion of my falling document:

When you loosen or tighten the screws on the bottom of the boots, press hard on the screwdriver, or you will strip the screw holes (and maybe strip the screw head, especially if using phillips head screws, which are the universal symbol of low quality contruction). But don't tighten so tight you strip the hole anyway - leather isn't as hard as most wood.

The traditional solution to stripped screw holes is to jam rolls of thin leather, or perhaps cut pieces, into the hole. Then you can screw into the same hole again.

I prefer to just fill the hole with a caulking compound and let it dry. That also lets me reposition the screw if I wish.

If you don't waterproof the bottom of your shoes (one brand name waterproofer is Sno-Seal), the leather will go bad (dry out or rot), so they say. Leather uppers in boots should also occaisionally be rubbed with a small amount of a leather conditioning oil (one brand name is Lexal, which doesn't stain the leather like some).

I think I might have to try fixing it myself, but how long will a home repair extentd the life of my boots?

They don't offer repairs anywhere in my city and its a shame to waste an otherwise good boot

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starting at 28

It will last as long as the boot. By definition.

Caulk takes a few minutes plus dry time, and mine have lasted many years (thousands of hours), without obvious breakdown. I don't jump very high - have no idea if experience would be different for a high jumper.

I forget what type of caulk I used - probably something designed for wood.

Maybe the main safety issue is skating while the screws are loose. This is not a major repair. I can't imagine throwing away skates for it.

Here's another tip if you don't want to plug the holes to provide 'purchase' for screw threads....

In the non-metric US, most skate blades are mounted using #6 screws - where the #6 refers to the diameter. Generally the front screws are 1/2" long, and the heel screws are 3/4" long.

If you go up one size to larger #8 diameter screws, they should engage new leather on the sole and you're all set.

To prevent them from backing out again, add a drop of waterproof wood glue into the hole before you insert the screw. The glue will absorb into the leather fibers in the thread and harden the area. In the US, Titebond III is the waterproof glue to use.

I don't know about screw sizing in the metric side of the pond, but I would expect that you could muster something similar.

I wouldn't use the wood glue with a new skate, but instead use silicon sealant to waterproof the entire area like the picture below...

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Bill Schneider

What we use at my rink is Gorilla Glue and some toothpicks shoved into the hole, allow to dry...cut off the toothpicks. good as new and ready for a new #6 Stainless Steel Screw (specify stainless or you will not get it-hence it will be prone to rusting). Once it's in and your blades are in the right spot, a drop of superglue will hold them in place (once they are in) or a bit more of Gorilla Glue for the last 1/4 turn. Let them dry.

I used the paste wood floor wax for my first 2 pair of skates...kept them looking nice, but now I sno-seal. Some poly, some shellac or use other stuff. My current pair I just sno-seal in August, before the season begins.

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Skate@Delaware
Ah, show skating!!! I do it for the glitter!

Bill_S, my skate has a wear spot just like yours and I've been wondering how it got there. Lunges?

Hahaha, my bad. That's why I wear 'em, not make 'em!

I have one on the right inside of my skate, on both the front part and the heel. I'm pretty sure it's from lunges.

I have that on my right boot on the inside. I always figured it was from doing lunges badly- that I was draggin that part instead of the side of my boot. Now that I'm down lower, the white part of my boot is gettting scuffed, not the sole. It makes me feel like maybe it's more normal now that I see others have it!

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-Jessi
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In my case it can't be lunges. I don't do lunges - can't get down that deep in the old knees (actually it's getting back up that causes me grief!).

It's from leaning over on the edges till the sole hits. A little more lean than that and the blade lifts off the ice with the expected consequences.

Usually this sort of deep edge happens at the end of an extended stroke, and not caused by body lean alone.

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Bill Schneider

I have it on the inside of the ball of my left boot from Ina Bauers (the left foot is my back foot). I re-waterproofed it and put tape over it so it doesn't get worse.

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