Permanent Mounting?

[taijiya]

Is it safe for me to install the remainder of my blades' screws myself, or would it be wiser to pay someone at the rink to do it? My blades are in the right position (they were adjusted for me some time back), I've just never got around to having the rest of the screws put in. Seems like it ought to be an easy enough thing to do myself, but I thought I'd better check before I did in case there's anything I need to know!

~~taijiya

[techskater]

Do you have something to water proof the holes with (like silicone)?

[Bill_S]

Is it safe for me to install the remainder of my blades' screws myself, or would it be wiser to pay someone at the rink to do it?
~~taijiya

I put screws in the last two pairs of skates myself. It's easy if you're modestly adept at mechanical tasks. I always start the screws by drilling a small pilot hole for the screw threads.

Before drilling though, use a pointed awl to put a dimple in the center to prevent the drill bit from wandering off-center.

I size the drill bit to be somewhat smaller than the solid shaft of the screw. Ignore the larger thread diameter, it's the solid center of the screw threads that you must use for sizing the drill. Remember that the leather compresses much easier than wood, so go fairly small on the pilot hole.

I also use a couple wraps of masking tape around the drill bit shaft to serve as a depth-indicator so that I don't accidentally drill completely through the leather.


http://oak.cats.ohiou.edu/~schneidw/skating/images/screw_drill_sk8b.jpg

After you do this, the rest is easy. The screws will align with the centered hole with no tendency to start going sideways.

I use #6 x 1/2" screws for the soles, and longer #6 x 3/4 for the heels.

On another note, go to the hardware store and buy honest-to-goodness stainless steel screws. The cheap galvanized steel screws used by many shops tend to rust too easily. I use stainless sheet metal screws that have somewhat finer threads than wood screws.

I use clear silicon seal to waterproof. When permantly mounting a new blade, I first mark its position on the bottom of the boot and then remove it. I coat the entire mounting plate with the gooey silicon seal and let the pressure of the screws squeeze it out evenly and into any crevices near the screws. Use your fingers wetted with water to chamfer the extra silicon that squeezes outside the mounting plate. This makes a very waterproof and strong attachment.

Here's a picture from several years ago showing the silicon sealant around the edges of my blade mounting plate:

http://oak.cats.ohiou.edu/~schneidw/skating/images/bevel_boot.jpg

[russiet]

As Bill's image shows, you do not need all of the screw holes populated.

The four temporary scews (pan-head in the slotted holes), plus three flat-headed screws in the round counter-sunk holes.

Two of the flat head screws go in the front plate; zig-zag pattern one all the way to the front, one on the opposite side all the way to the back. Just like Bill's photo.

The longer flat head screw in the heel plate on the side opposite the previous front plate screw.

I'm sure it differs on some blades, but that probably leaves you with four open front plate holes and one in the heel plate.

To drill the pilot holes dead-on-center is important. The job is much easier and almost fool proof if you use a "Vix Bit". http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=2022
Wood workers use this type of centering bit to drill hinge hardware holes (as do professional skate boot fitters). The 7/64" for #5 & #6 screws is the right size.

I do cabinet work, so I have vix bits on hand. You can proceed as Bill shows, but pay attention to the details.

[taijiya]

Thank you all very much--especially your response, Bill, with the attached photos. Knowing how to properly proceed now, I think that I am well up to the task! :)

~~taijiya