Ok here's a dumb beginner question. Do I need to waterproof the soles of my boots (Reidell 320)? If so, how is it done? Can I do it myself? :?

Not a dumb question at all.


PROPER BOOT CARE

Apply a coat of "Jubilee" or paste wax to new boots or freshly polished and cleaned skates. This preserves and protects the leather. Scuff marks can often be removed using soap on a damp cloth.

Before polishing boots, use a leather cleaner. Alcohol can dry out the leather, causing cracking.
The use of boot covers offers protection from scuff marks.

The soles of the boots should be waterproofed before the blades are mounted. This should be reapplied on a regular basis to protect the leather soles from warping and deteriorating. (Our folks recommend Kiwi waterproof.) Some enamel waterproofing has a tendency to "run", so use some caution. Dried enamel on the upper of the boot can be removed with just a bit of nail polish.

Boots should be polished using skate polish only. Do not use shoe polish. Laces should be removed from skates when polishing. (Our folks recommend SP Teri or Hyde polish, at $6.00 - $7.00 per bottle.)

I'd kill for a bottle of Hyde polish! I have only a few applications left and it's my understanding that it is no longer available......boo! My bottle of Hyde has lasted me about 3 years, using it prior to competitions and testing only. I've got a bottle of SP-teri polish, but I know it just won't be the same......

We use snoseal on our soles. Make sure the soles are dry then heat them with a hairdryer and apply the snoseal until it won't soak in anymore. I do small areas at a time. I would guess the Kiwi waterproofing is a similar product?

I've been using skatetape on the front area of daughter's skates inbetween polishing. It's doing a pretty good job of protecting her skates from serious gouging and scuffs. It does leave adhesive marks that must be cleaned off prior to polish.

I Sno-Seal the soles and use Harlick pigment on the uppers and haven't had any problems [size=9:549afef27c][i:549afef27c](hope I didn't speak too soon there!!!)[/i:549afef27c][/size:549afef27c]

I know a couple of people who use yacht varnish on their heels for a shiny effect but was warned off this because it doesn't let any moisture out that might get in there!

__________________

The best whisper is a click

Your Riedells, like mine, probably came with a small packet of Sno-seal (which is beeswax-based), which Riedell recommends for sealing the soles, along with instructions on how to do it toward the end of their little boot care/fit booklet. Your pro shop should also stock Sno-seal, or you can probably order it on-line or through a catalog.

My 220s (also purchased this year) came with a thin, protective wax layer on the soles, but had not been Sno-sealed (you could tell because the soles were a light beige rather than the warmer tan color they take on after being sealed). Because they came with the blades already mounted, and because removing and re-mounting the blades was definitely not something I wanted to mess with, I had the FS guy at my rink seal them the first time (for a small fee) after getting my coach’s recommendation as to which person there would do the best job. Riedell recommends 3 to 5 applications (with cooling/drying in between) at first, with another application within two weeks, and monthly thereafter (I have been doing these myself without removing the blades), but if you skate a lot or the conditions at your rink are really wet, you may need to do it more often.

Make sure the soles are real dry and clean before starting. I also use a hair dryer to warm them up (this opens the pores of the leather for absorption), rub the stuff in and keep applying until no more soaks in, then wipe off any leftover goop with a cotton cloth.

After a session, I dry off boots, blades and soles very carefully with a terry cloth and inspect them for any signs of moisture. Once home, I let them out of their bag (with their soakers on) to let everything air out.

-- wannask8

I've had my skates for three years, used Reidell Silver Stars with Coronation Comets. When the blades were attached, the shop varnished and sealed the soles--I've never had to waterproof since. They are breaking down, though, and I think by the time the loop jump comes into play, Mr. Klingbeill and I will be having a little chat!!!

My sharpener, Dori, calls me her poster child for blade/sole care. She says my blades always come in in great condition, no rust, no signs of dirt and my soles look good. I dry the blades and boots thoroughly with a good quality cotton towel after skating. I use one of her "Wipe your blades!!!" towels because they are better quality cotton and absorb more than my home towels. But the real secret? I put the skates on a chair away from "home traffic" to dry, BLADES EXPOSED. This way ALL the moisture evaporates. This was Dori's biggest suggestion, and it has worked great for me. The blades dry undisturbed, without water remaining in the soaker that can affect them.

Beth

I have found Sno-seal where hiking boots are sold too.

If you can't find Snoseal, Butcher's Wax (the stuff used on wood floors and old bowling lanes) works the same way, although it has a stronger smell. You can find Butcher's Wax in the floor care section of large hardware or home improvement stores. The advantage is that it comes in a giant container and lasts for years. I think I bought mine close to a decade ago and it's still only half gone. Plus you can polish furniture with it.

Thanks for all your advice. I do have 2 little packets of Snoseal that came with the boots. I thought the Snoseal was for the top part of the boot not the sole, so I got some heel and sole enamel. Which should I use?

Also can I just unscrew the blades and do it myself? Is it difficult to put them back on? Or should I let someone at the pro shop do it?

Personally, I'd use the Sno-Seal on the uppers and the enamel on the soles.

You can take your blades off and put them back on yourself.

If you've had your blades moved/adjusted and there are two sets of screw holes, use a pencil and mark around the base plate first. That way you can reallign them when you put them back on. If they've never been adjusted, you won't have to worry about marking.

Make sure you don't strip the heads of the screws when you're loosening or tightening them. You'll need good downward pressure. Have someone help you hold the boot.

If you do strip a screw headl, replace it from the local hardware store. Get one the same size made from stainless steel.

Make sure the screws are tight when you put the blades back on. I'm not a weakling, but I had a guy at work (arms like a gorilla) give the screws a final snug after I had them in.

I've done mine and adjusted my blades several times. It's really pretty easy. You can use a drill with a screw bit, too.

dont fool around with ur blades..you can unalign them. Jsut put the sealer on aroudn them and if you are concerned take them to the pro shop

[quote:d8988aa96e="SusanaO"]Thanks for all your advice. I do have 2 little packets of Snoseal that came with the boots. I thought the Snoseal was for the top part of the boot not the sole, so I got some heel and sole enamel. Which should I use?

Also can I just unscrew the blades and do it myself? Is it difficult to put them back on? Or should I let someone at the pro shop do it?[/quote:d8988aa96e]

I, personally, wouldn't mess too much with my blades. For one you can move them out of alignment and, secondly, taking the screws in an out can make the holes bigger so you end up having to drill more holes and/or packing out the current holes! Doing this can mean that the blade keeps coming loose OR you can ending up losing screws and, possibly a blade! If you do tighten the screws up don't overtighten them as it can distort the blade. I don't know of many (ok, any) blades that fit the sole of the boot perfectly and winching them right up to the hilt could result in a wrecked blade!

I would stick with sno-seal on the soles and pigment on the tops. 'Enamel' sounds as though it would keep moisture in the sole/heel which could result in the heel rotting ...... I HAVE seen an entire sole fall off a boot when the skater was in the middle of a Free dance!

__________________

The best whisper is a click

[quote:033bc82e4d="TashaKat"]

I, personally, wouldn't mess too much with my blades. For one you can move them out of alignment and, secondly, taking the screws in an out can make the holes bigger so you end up having to drill more holes and/or packing out the current holes! [/quote:033bc82e4d]

I fixed an enlarged screw hole on an old pair of boots for a girl by putting a dab of Liquid Nail in the hole, immediately putting the screw back in, and letting it set overnight. It's been holding up for several months with no problems.

[quote:033bc82e4d="TashaKat"]
I would stick with sno-seal on the soles and pigment on the tops. 'Enamel' sounds as though it would keep moisture in the sole/heel which could result in the heel rotting [/quote:033bc82e4d]

There are always differing opinions.

My boot pro enamelled my soles and heels before he put the blades on. Then, after we had made sure the blades were set where I needed them (several months), he took the blades off, dried everything with a blow dryer, reinstalled the blades, and then put a bead of silicon sealer around all of the edges where the blade plate met the sole. This, supposedly, keeps water from accumulating under the plate and deteriorating the enamel and leather.