I've been searching for a while now and I have finally found somewhere in the UK I can get the Ultima matrix blade.

Before I order this blade I want to clarify one concern I have. I know on the jackson site it says the sole of the boot needs sanding flat for the blade to be mounted. is this necessary? I have Riedell 1500HLS

The reason I ask is I have never used Jackson blades and if i dont get on with them I will go back to JW or MK. My main concern is if the boots are sanded flat, I don't think I would be able to go back to the curved mounting plate on the JW/MK blades.

Also does anyone have any opinions on the Matrix blades, It will be used with either freestyle or elite runners, I'm on Wilson four aces at the moment working on all double jumps.

I'm not a true expert, but why not just use shims - e.g., strips of leather or tape or metal between the mount and boot, so the mounts surfaces are along flat planes?

Rusty Blades likes metal shims at

http://skatingforums.com/showthread....ht=metal+shims

Perhaps his worry is that leather or tape will compress, and eventually no be longer flat, and twist the runner. But you are trying it for a bit, so tape is easier, and reversable.

The Jackson Ultima catalog implies all Matrix freestyle blades are for people at the top of the sport. Some of the lower level non-Matrix Ultima blade sets are cheaper then Matrix chasis + runners. For me, as a very low level mostly dance skater, the Supreme runners have a long enough tail (compared to dance blades) that backwards threes are hard, because I have trouble leaning back enough.

Honest mistake but FYI Rusty Blades is female.


As for the blades- I have no useful information, but know quite a few skaters around here who love them.

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-Jessi
What I need is a montage...
Visit my skating journal or my Youtube videos (updated with 2 new videos Sept 26, 2009)

There's more than one reason to get the Matrix system. Where I skate there is no-one I would trust to sharpen my skates. I, and many others, send our skates interstate, and have to use express post if we don't want to have to miss a session of skating while they're away. With postage, that can cost about
$80 AUD. per sharpening. Sending just the runner will save a fortune. Replacing the runner when some skate sharpener totally wrecks them will also be much cheaper.

Quite a few skaters here are getting them, along with Jackson Proflex boots, which are also recommended for those doing at least doubles - which we aren't.

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Karen

I skate - therefore I am

Was last time I checked!

(Sorry LOL!)

I am not in favour of sanding because it removes the surface layer of the leather which is the best weatherproofing (because it has the strongest tanning), is the most dense and the hardest. I am also not sure if sanding will change the relationship between the sole of your foot and the mounting plate of your blade - might be ok if it was done while you stood with your full weight in the boot. As an engineering type, I am very reluctant to change anything that can't be undone unless it is absolutely necessary.

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Dianne
(A.O.S.S.? Got it BAD! )

I have the matrix system and when i got the boots and blades the shop sanded the bottoms of my boot i didnt realize they did till after they mounted the blades i was upset about it at first but i have had my boots and blades for 2 years now and have had no issues with the sanding and it hasnt hurt my boots or my skating.

SORRY Rusty Blades about the gender mixup!

>I, and many others, send our skates interstate,
>and have to use express post if we don't want to
>have to miss a session of skating while they're away.
>With postage, that can cost about $80 AUD.
>per sharpening.

Wow! That's about the price of the Pro-filer hand sharpener. If you are a cautious adult who won't cut yourself, you can get at least as good an edge yourself, if you are careful. (Photocopy the original blades so you know what profile to maintain, especially around the sweet spot.)

Done right, hand sharpening removes several times less metal (according to a sharpener I trust, good slow hand sharpening mostly distorts the metal, creating a burr that you straighten into an edge; fast machine sharpening mostly grinds metal away), so the blade lasts several times longer.

Careful hand sharpening takes about 15-30 minutes to sharpen two skates, assuming you sharpen every 50-100 hours on the ice, and it may take a a few hours the first time to figure out how to get it right.

I would guess the sharpening stones last 15-30 sharpenings, depending.

Or is $80 a misprint - would anyone spend that much?

Also honestly, I now mostly let the shop machine grind it, because it is faster.

Here is Schneider's excellent page on hand sharpening

http://oak.cats.ohiou.edu/~schneidw/.../profiler.html

BTW Some people say tapered blades should be sharpened by temporarally adding tape so they aren't tapered. I haven't bothered, but tapered blades still take extra time.

[QUOTE=Query;361299Or is $80 a misprint - would anyone spend that much?[/QUOTE]

No, it wasn't a typo. That's what I mean, more than one reason to buy the matrix system. It's $25 AUD each way by express post, plus about $30 for sharpening with laser finishing. I don't really understand the laser finishing, except that it gives an exceptionally clean edge, no burrs, so no time lost wearing them back in.
My matrix runners will save me a fortune. Unfortunately my daughter doesn't have them, so still have to send her boots off

Sorry to hijack the thread into a sharpening issue, but Query did ask:

I do intend to get either a Skatemate or Profiler. I didn't before cos I had Phantoms which have tapered blades, but now I keep procrastinating whether to go for a Skatemate or a Profiler, whether to get 1/2" or 3/8" which is now available . Neither come in 7/16" which is annoying.
I know 5/16" was way too much edge for me, but think 1/2" is not enough.

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Karen

I skate - therefore I am

So that is why it is cheaper to get two pair of runners, so you don't have to use express post.

I've heard of people who cut insets into their outsoles, so they could remove normal blades from skates, because they were attached with bolts (like many roller skates). A lot of show skaters have done it, cuz they skate many hours in a row, often on abrasive synthetic ice.

That is a pretty big change, that only a good artisan should try.

Skatemate's website

http://www.skatemate.com/live

says

In other words, it has no specific radius of hollow, and it could eventually produce a non-uniform ROH.

On the other hand, you are right, 7/16 isn't available from pro-filer. If you do change the ROH, let the shop do it - takes a long time by hand.

I know that if I change ROH, the blade feels completely different to me. You may not want that.

Maybe you should open your own bootfitting and sharpening shop. If you were good, seems like you would fill a need. Though as far as I know, people have to learn by apprenticeship to a master, or something close to that - not a lot of published info out there.