How to take care of Ice Skates? - Page 3

WJLServo · #51 05-09-2007, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by b viswanathan

Someone asked about "custom" sharpening. I don't know what the practice is at your local rink(s), or what exactly they're offering, but I can tell you about my experience.

First, even though I'm not a very high level skater (testing adult silver), I can tell the difference in sharpenings. A poor sharpening can be lopsided, or feel funny when you do edges. Even more, there's stuff that can go wrong over time - for e.g., wrecking the rocker. With expensive equipment, why take the risk?

Anyway, when I moved here, I asked a bunch of figure skaters for recommendations for a sharpener. (Key: ask a figure skater. Hockey skates are different.) I found almost everyone gave me 2 of the same references. These guys are the ones I trust, and I think they're worth the cost ($12).

I'd definitely ask around. Also, over time, you might figure out your preferences. I like an sharp cut, as I mostly practice on hard hockey ice. I also like to sharpen frequently (6-8 weeks, practicing around 3x/wk.), but can't always get my wish. I can tell when I need it, though, as I fall off my edges even more than usual (especially on camel spins, my nemesis).

Some skaters carry around sharpening stones, but I haven't trusted myself with them. Maybe I should see if someone would train me!

Hope this helps.

bv

Ms Tiger? Is that you? WJL, 50 y.o. hippie from Burbank Arena, here.....

Hmmmmm. Should be honest I guess. How about "Most near 60 y.o. hippie?!?!"

parad0x · #52 05-13-2007, 12:27 PM

Hi,

I hope this isn't a silly question and in the wrong topic, but I was thinking of replacing the laces on my skates and was wondering if the laces from sport shops selling sports shoes would do? Or do they have to be specifically skating laces?

This is as my laces which came with my new boots are too short

the advice my proshop gave me was to stop wearing sports socks with my boots and the laces would fit just right

it's just that I have feet that sweat really easily and the thought of having thin socks that don't soak up the sweat is just

.

Also, I was wondering what should i do if water gets into my soles after i skate? My boots have been lacquered, but it seems like water is getting through the lacquer through the screws that is used to mount my blades.

These are my first pair of figure skates. I've just recently started to take up recreational skating

Thanks!

Tiggerwoos · #53 05-13-2007, 01:08 PM

TBH, I'd think the one's found in sports shops would be way too short........... trust me, it's only when you take those laces out those boots you realise how long they are.

You can get a waterproofing agent for the soles of the boots. I've never bothered, but it is a good idea.

A good place to get both laces and boot care is:

http://www.rainbosports.com/shop/sit...D3C0C73A24B9D5

parad0x · #54 05-14-2007, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tiggerwoos

TBH, I'd think the one's found in sports shops would be way too short........... trust me, it's only when you take those laces out those boots you realise how long they are.

You can get a waterproofing agent for the soles of the boots. I've never bothered, but it is a good idea.

A good place to get both laces and boot care is:

http://www.rainbosports.com/shop/sit...D3C0C73A24B9D5

Hi Tiggerwoos, thanks for the reply

looks like i'll be making a visit to the rainbo website for more stuff!

Precisionblade · #55 06-05-2007, 03:34 PM

Great question with excellent responses to date. The points I would like to add 1) if possible, keep your boots dry by using a boot dryer, 2) after drying your blades after skating, wipe them down with a cloth that is lightly oil soaked (which includes a rust prehibitor),then give them a quick wipe off with a clean cloth before you go back on the ice 3) use snowseal on the soles and heels (before the blades are mounted if possible) 4) boot uppers can be cleaned using a light dish detergent (heavier cleaners can be used depending on boot finish) 5) Goof Off (honest, that's the product name!) can be used to remove tape marks, but watch the finish(does not work on Harlicks) test a small area first 6) we have tried many types of tape and the best by far is tarp repair tape which comes in black and white. It doesn't turn yellow and is very strong. 7) Sharpening is a huge issue and I have seen MK Dance blades worth $500.00 + destroyed with one sharpening. Hope this helps.

ms.goody2shoez · #56 02-28-2009, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TashaKat

Depends whether you want them looking like new or not

I preferred mine a bit battered so that it looked like I actually did some work

Anyway ....

Make sure that you dry the blades after every time you use them. I also like to put 'soakers' on to transport them rather than hard blade guards as I always found that no matter how particular I was hard guards would always cause them to rust. I only used hard guards for walking off ice in.

Make sure that you wear hard guards for when you're walking around off ice. Even small particles of grit can damage your blade.

If you feel up to it (I only felt up to it for tests and comps) then you can polish, clean and repigment them. You can buy a special pigment from the manufacturer or a good skate shop, it's much better than normal shoe whitener or dye.

Wax the soles of your boots every now and then.

Make sure that you let the boots dry out naturally, don't ever put them near a fire or on a radiator.

Check the laces!!! Nothing worse than a broken lace at an inopportune moment. Well there is which brings me to the next point ...

Check the blade screws periodically, they can work loose!

Get your blades 'sharpened' regularly (depends on your skating, I used to do it every 4-6 weeks when I was skating regularly) by a GOOD skate guy. I don't know what it's like in the US and other countries but I wouldn't let a rink sharpener within a million miles of my blades

You can always wear OTB (over the boot) tights or boot covers to help keep your boots less scuffed.

Coloured duct tape can work wonders on 'lunge' scrapes and other boot ouchies.

Can't think of anything else just yet ....

The reason that your blades may rust is because the moisture is not all the way wiped off. After skating try wiping the blade off with a terry cloth. This will wick away the moisture. Place a terry cloth soaker over it when storing, but as you're walking or just standing, cover them with plastic guards. Oh, and what do you think I should wear when skating, besides ice skating apparel?

AgnesNitt · #57 02-28-2009, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ms.goody2shoez

The reason that your blades may rust is because the moisture is not all the way wiped off.

I've found that those microfiber cloths you get at the dollar store are WAY better than cotton cloths. They just suck up the water in one swipe.

mamaskate · #58 04-04-2009, 04:01 PM

Has anyone here tried Stink-Eez? I'm wondering if they work as well as advertised. Do you know what they're filled with?

Mrs Redboots · #59 04-05-2009, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mamaskate

Has anyone here tried Stink-Eez? I'm wondering if they work as well as advertised. Do you know what they're filled with?

Are those those fish-shaped things? A couple of skaters I know have them.... I regret to say we call them "sex toys", as that's what an airport official once thought they were! I believe they work very well.

mamaskate · #60 04-05-2009, 12:47 PM

They make fish shaped ones, but they also make them in rectangular shapes. I can't believe someone thought that! I can't even imagine what he was thinking!

dbny · #61 04-05-2009, 06:35 PM

Put some baking soda in an old sock, tie it off, and use that to stop odors. Refill with fresh baking soda as needed.

Mrs Redboots · #62 04-06-2009, 05:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mamaskate

They make fish shaped ones, but they also make them in rectangular shapes. I can't believe someone thought that! I can't even imagine what he was thinking!

I think it just looked an odd shape on the X-ray machine, so they enquired....

Kat12 · #63 06-09-2009, 06:23 PM

Powdered charcoal might help with smell too?

Has anyone ever waterproofed with just a chunk of beeswax rather than paying for SnoSeal? I'm sure the SnoSeal is a bit easier, but...

I replaced the boring white laces in my crappy skates with blue hockey laces, but it seems the lace holes on "real" skates are a lot smaller and the hockey laces might be too fat (yeah, I know I can get colored figure skate laces online, but I'm not paying shipping just for that--it'd probably cost more than the laces would!). I don't wanna be stuck with white laces...anyone see any harm in taking my skates to a shoe shop and having them take an awl to the lace holes to make them a bit bigger and able to fit my nifty blue laces?

FSWer · #64 06-09-2009, 06:41 PM

I don't know much. So I don't know if you have to waterproof. But I dry my blades with washclothes and then wrap my skates in towels.

Kim to the Max · #65 06-09-2009, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kat12

I replaced the boring white laces in my crappy skates with blue hockey laces, but it seems the lace holes on "real" skates are a lot smaller and the hockey laces might be too fat (yeah, I know I can get colored figure skate laces online, but I'm not paying shipping just for that--it'd probably cost more than the laces would!). I don't wanna be stuck with white laces...anyone see any harm in taking my skates to a shoe shop and having them take an awl to the lace holes to make them a bit bigger and able to fit my nifty blue laces?

You could dye the ones you have....RIT dye isn't all that expensive...or kool-aid can be used as an effective dye as well (although less permanent).

Kat12 · #66 06-09-2009, 07:52 PM

True, but I already have the blue ones...

luckykid · #67 07-09-2009, 11:49 PM

Can I just use any waterproofing wax for leather to waterproof the soles? Since I can't get sno seal.

winskates · #68 05-23-2010, 01:52 AM

My ice skate blade gets rusty, and seems won't glitter any more.

Shall I polish it, and put some grease on the surface?

1.Always dry blades thoroughly after skating.
2.Get blades sharpened on a regular basis by a professional.
3.Wear skate guards on ice skating blades when walking on hard surfaces, floors, and/or concrete.
4.After drying skates thoroughly, cover and store the blades inside of towel-like soakers.
5.Do not leave or store blades inside of plastic or rubber skate guards.
6.Polish figure skating boots on a regular basis.
7.In addition to drying blades thoroughly, dry off the boot's sole completely.
8.Open up the boots a bit, so they can air out, after each skating session.
9.Never attempt to walk around or skate in ice skates without the boots being completely laced up.
10.Replace broken figure skate laces on a regular basis.
11.Have an experienced figure skate technician mount blades and replace screws when necessary.

xtenshix · #69 07-09-2010, 09:06 PM

i dont know whats going on.
it seems the cheaper skates with cheaper blades DONT rust.
I always wipe my blades(stock blades on Riedell 133s), carry them in soakers, and only use the hard guards for walking, take them out of the bag to air dry YET my blades get rust(and not the just scrape off kind), between putting them in my bag and getting home.

the ride is only 10 minutes, but when i get home, the blades already have rust! on the other side, my mom has jacksons. i dont know the name but they have a shoe-like appearance and they're dark blue, grey and white. She walks on the rubber mats w/o guards, she rarely dries them off and she leaves them in the trunk of the car and/or in her bag. YET, they DONT RUST!!!! what is up with that?

this was after they've just were sharpened

Query · #70 08-03-2010, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xtenshix

I always wipe my blades(stock blades on Riedell 133s), carry them in soakers, and only use the hard guards for walking, take them out of the bag to air dry YET my blades get rust

Riedell 133 are beginner level skates, according to a website. Maybe that is a factor.

You are doing most things right. These may help:

1. Do not keep the cloth used to dry the blades in the same bag with the skates! Make sure the cloth has a chance to get completely dry between skates. If you can use a dry paper towel that you promptly throw away, that will work.

2. If possible, don't keep the boots in a bag at all, even during transport - if you must, it should be of a material like mesh or cotton that can breath.

3. Do not place the boots in a trunk - make sure they have good ventilation.

4. If that isn't enough, apply a thin layer of oil to the blades, after drying the blades.

Beyond that, I am at a loss.

FSWer · #71 08-03-2010, 08:27 PM

I always put my lie the towels that I bought my skates to the Rink in down on the floor (yes the floor is wet so I have to expect to end up wraping my skates back up in a very wet or damp towel) wipe my Blades with washclothes that I use as soakes. Then wrap my skates up and put them in my skatebag. When I get home though I unlace my skates all the way down,lay them on a brand-new set of towels to dry and then use that new set of towels to once again wrap up my skates and store them. While organizing my Skatebag. I still get rust. Or something down by the toe-pick that I think is. But I'm not sure.

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