Need advice on how to Sew mesh inserts to cutaway sections

[katz in boots]

Some dresses have sections where the fabric of the main bodice is cut away and filled with the mesh that continues up to form the upper bodice. Sort of like flames coming up from the bottom part, if you know what I mean.

A bit like this one, only with longer, thinner tendrils of fabric.
http://www.shareneskatewear.com/shoppe/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=77

I am looking at making a dress from velvet which has lots of these flame effect bits, but can't work out the best way to attach the two fabrics.
Ordinary seams are tricky around the points & dips, but appliquing by zigzag over the top doesn't give a very neat finish.

Any suggestions how best to tackle this?

[vesperholly]

The easiest way might be to build a "base" bodice of mesh, and then layer the fabric on top. That way you're not dealing with joining fabrics, and you can add/change/remove with a lot more ease. That many seams, I'd go mad.

[BuggieMom]

The way these tricky parts are done is with a zig zag applique technique, sorry! I have checked out many brand name dresses, and this is how they all do it. Unless you want to use a fabric glue of some sort to glue the velvet layer to the mesh layer. Most of the time when I use zig zag, I am planning on stoning along the edge anyway, and it is covered up. Just use a narrower stitch width and play with the length...I use a 2 width, 3 or 4 length. You would spend forever and drive yourself nuts trying to use a conventional seam on that amount of curves, corners and points!

Remember, nothing reads across the ice the same way you see it up close.

[Isk8NYC]

They also use tearaway stabilizer fabric for the applique technique.

Sandwich and pin the three layers together - tearaway (bottom), cutaway (middle), and applique' (top). Then you use an overcast zigzag stitch to apply the design and create the "seams."

A pair of super-sharp embroidery scissors clean up the cutaway seams. Takes patience though.

I wonder if a serger can do the seam-and-trim in one step? I've only seen that used for overcast-edged seams, so I don't know.

[Sessy]

A 3 or 4 spool serger cuts the material to the right of the foot of the sewing machine, so you can only use it to trim edges that are exposed (e.g. along the sideseams of a dress), but some 5-spool sergers are capable of doing the sort of stitch that you often see on the top of a stretch t-shirt, where one side looks like ===== that and the backside looks like XXXXXX and it's used about a half an inch from the edge of the fabric, or even down the line of the t-shirt all the way. 5-spool sergers are painfully expensive though. A new 3-spool starts around 125 euro here, a new 4-spool around 300 euro, a new 5-spool is closer to a 1000... (those numbers may be slightly out of date, I bought my 4-spool serger a few years ago).

If you're uncomfortable with exposed seams, put stones or decorative (stretch!) band on top :)

[Skate@Delaware]

Yeah, you'd want to use a zig-zag that used 3-stitches per zig (triple zig-zag). I've done this and when you match your threads it is virtually invisible from 2 feet away (c'mon who is THAT picky???) slap some stones on top and you are good to go!

again, use the stabilizer just so it doesn't stretch out and practice on a few pieces first. Take your time (that means-no projects the DAY BEFORE A COMPETITION)

[Isk8NYC]

S@D - I can't imagine zig-zagging right over a raw edge, so I assume you there is a seam allowance for the appliqued pieces?

[Mrs Redboots]

Take your time (that means-no projects the DAY BEFORE A COMPETITION)

Ah come on - it wouldn't be a competition if there weren't at least one person sitting in the changing-rooms frantically finishing her outfit!

[Clarice]

S@D - I can't imagine zig-zagging right over a raw edge, so I assume you there is a seam allowance for the appliqued pieces?

I zigzag right over the raw edge all the time. Lycra doesn't ravel, and if you size your stitch right you really can't see it unless you're right on top of it, especially if you've put any kind of trim along the edge. If you folded over a seam allowance, I think things would get pretty bulky.

[aussieskater]

Like vesperholly, I make the underlayer (the illusion/mesh) and then lay the colour over top and cut away the colour after flatstitching the layers together to reveal the mesh. I don't stretch the seam at all as I do it. Mind you, I've never done anything as detailed as flames using it, so you might want to try it out on some scraps first.

If your machine doesn't have triple zigzag (which my almost-20yo doesn't), I've had good results using the stitch which looks a bit like this: /_/_/_/_/ with the "horizontal" stitch furthest away from the joining edge. It covers and stabilises the flat seam while still allowing some stretch (so the dress doesn't pucker when you wear it).

I've also seen one of the coaches at our rink (who makes dresses on the side) using a regular modern stretch stitch which looks a little like this: \___/---\___/---\___/ (My machine doesn't have this stitch either!)

Good luck, and post a picture when it's done!

[katz in boots]

Thanks everyone!!! I am Soooo relieved to hear that applique is the way to go. I have been driving myself nuts experimenting with seaming it, and although I'm getting better, it is very fiddly. :frus:

I did experiment with applique initially, but wasn't happy with the result, however using a reinforcement should fix that.

I have a 4 spool overlocker (serger) but getting around the dips and tips is very hard. My sewing machine does have 3 step zig zag, and a range of other overcasting stitches, so I should be okay there.

I am pretty good at disguising my mistakes with stones or decoration, however this dress is for another skater. She'll have a fitting before the stones go on, and her mother may elect to decorate herself when she hears how much Swarovski cost, so it needs to look finished before it is decorated.

Applique I can do. Phew! Thanks for saving me hours of frustration.

Fabric Glue? (thinks: "a whole new world opens up before me") Are these just for temporarily holding fabric, or permanent? Is there a good one for stretch fabric?

[CanadianAdult]

I wouldn't glue appliques together permanently because glue doesn't stretch but I definitely glue my layers together before sewing in the flames or whatever it is I want to applique. I use 505 spray, it's used by quilters and it washes out. Glue your layers together like a sandwich, draw on your flames, sew along those lines and cut away what you don't want. A quick rinse will remove the spray, and I do rinse it out as it tends to attract dirt eventually if there's any on a visible area, but you'll get good enough just to spray tack your layers in places that you know will never show.

You could use a straight zig zag, long and wide, a 3 step zig zag if you have one, or a running S stitch. It's got to be able to stretch. I have at times used a twin needle to applique but that emphasizes the sewing so it's only if you want that effect.

[Deb in Oz]

Here is a great website with some instructions on decorating leotards..... easily applied to skating dresses.....

http://www.leotardmaking.com/


I have never tried it as my DD is only a beginner - I have made practice dresses and skirts for her using a quick sew pattern. As for me, well, If anyone knows of a nice adult pattern for myself that is flattering to a middle aged waistline (after 4 kids!) I'd love to hear about it...... I just can't bring myself to wear one of those frilly things...... There must be a better, tasteful solution than my Danskin yoga pants and t-shirt.... any ideas?
Deb

[katz in boots]

Here is a great website with some instructions on decorating leotards..... easily applied to skating dresses.....

http://www.leotardmaking.com/


I have never tried it as my DD is only a beginner - I have made practice dresses and skirts for her using a quick sew pattern. As for me, well, If anyone knows of a nice adult pattern for myself that is flattering to a middle aged waistline (after 4 kids!) I'd love to hear about it...... I just can't bring myself to wear one of those frilly things...... There must be a better, tasteful solution than my Danskin yoga pants and t-shirt.... any ideas?
Deb

Thanks Deb, that's a really good site! Free pattern downloads & lots of tips.

[Limonchella]

Thanks Deb, that's a really good site! Free pattern downloads & lots of tips.

Please, girls, help me! This site is disappered and I never thought I can be so stupid! I downloaded only on esize (2), cause I thought I wouldn't sew it. But time passed, I need size 3, but I can't find it. Maybe you have size 3 and older? Can you share it with me? I can send size 2 if somebody need. Really it's thу only pattern suitable for my daughter. It's perfect!

[Skate@Delaware]

A lot of us here use Kwik-Sew or Jalie patterns for our dresses because they tend to fit better, a few use other brands (Butterick, Simplicity)-your fit will vary depending on the way you are built vs. how the pattern is made.

Not sure what the original pattern looked like.

What specifically are you looking for-instructions on decorating or details on sewing a dress or both? Also, how much experience do you have with sewing and/or decorating and (the big question) when is the item needed by?

[Kitkat1]

I have sewn a few leotards and have tried a few patterns.
The Jaelle pattern was good.
l did sew the free leotard pattern on the leotard making web site and it was good, that web site sold cheap patterns on payloadz.com (need to search leotard pattern) and you can download the pattern straight away.
I have done a few good leotards with two different fabrics but was wondering
if anyone knows where to get interesting stretch fabric with print on it. I can only find plain fabric and have not found any sites with interesting printed fabric. If anyone knows where to get it please post it.:o