To Skate@Delaware or any other sewers...

[sunshinepointe]

I tried sending S@D a PM but your in box is full - plus if anyone else has answers for me it would be appreciated!

I bought a pattern and attempted to make a dress a couple of months ago but I rushed through it and it didn't come out so great so I aborted the project. I want to try it again but really take my time with it but I'm not sure what type of fabric to get. Last time I got a semi-sheer fabric and I attempted to add a lining to it and I think it was a bit advanced for my sewing ability. What is the best type of fabric to purchase for someone like me, meaning someone who doesn't want the hassle of dealing with a lining? Or let me ask you this - if I made a dress with sheer fabric could I get away with wearing a leotard underneath or would that be strange?

I looked at Spandexhouse.com but I felt a bit overwhelmed. Things like "mesh" seem sheer to me but I don't know. Also, the difference between two way and four way stretch fabric? Poly? I know the differences in terms of what they are but is there a better choice for making a skating dress out of as opposed to another? Sorry so many questions but I went to the local fabric store and a) they had only a couple of fabrics in their swim/dance section that were pretty terrible and b) no one was able to answer my questions with respect to the skating aspects or functionability rather. If you or anyone can help me out that would be great because I'm very anxious to learn to sew!:bow:

[Skate@Delaware]

Ooops! Guess I'll empty my mailbox.

You will want to look for something that has 4-way stretch. This means that it stretches horizontally and vertically. Fabric that has 2-way stretch will only stretch either horizontally OR vertically.....

Lycra or spandex is good. You will find that they are mostly blends. If you want to forego lining it, then look for a darker color, or be sure to wear a "nudie" underneath, but test it first as some fabrics are way too sheer even with a nudie and MUST be lined.

Mesh (esp stretch mesh) is sheer. It is really not good to be used alone unless you are doing sleeves or upper parts of bodices. It's great for that! Non-stretch mesh is great for skirts, but I prefer stretch mesh for that also, since I want to match the sleeves.

Stretch velvet is good to work with BUT you really must pin it well as the layers tend to "move" on you....8O

Here is the Spandex House spandex page....patterns are very nice to use and don't usually allow "peeps" but you have to be sure that the pattern isn't too large to look bad on the ice.
http://www.spandexhouse.com/products.asp?id=90&pname=Fashionable%20Novelty%20Spandex

Here is the link to Denver Fabrics Skating and Dance fabric. I like the fact that they will tell you characteristics of the fabric-stretch, amount in stock, etc.
http://www.denverfabrics.com/pages/static/swimwear/stretch-fabric.htm

My suggestion for inserting a lining would be: make sure it has the same amount of stretch as the fashion fabric. You can use the same pattern pieces, keep the fashion and lining pieces together as you sew (makes it easier) with pins (be sure to remove them-I accidentally left one BETWEEN the layers and had a hard time digging it out)...or you can baste the layers together.

Let me know if you have any other questions. And I'm sure that others on the board will help-lots of sewers here who make their own garb!!

[Isk8NYC]

Thanks so much for posting those sites. I have beautiful silky material I bought for a skating dress (skirt material) for my daughter, then I couldn't find coordinating stretch velvet for the body. I just saw exactly the color and fabric I wanted. If it's 4-way stretch (trust me, it IS mandatory) I'm buying it!

If you look at the edge of your pattern, it has a stretch measurement guide. Test the fabric length- and width-wise. If it doesn't have enough stretchiness, the fabric will run.

It's really important to fit the pattern well before you cut and sew. If you make it too short (girth?), the bodysuit will gap in the back and ride up your tush!

Last tip: use Fray Stop or a bit of clear nail polish on any enclosed/hidden clip points to keep them from running when they stretch. Don't use it on entire seams - it dries scratchy.

[Skate@Delaware]

Thanks so much for posting those sites. I have beautiful silky material I bought for a skating dress (skirt material) for my daughter, then I couldn't find coordinating stretch velvet for the body. I just saw exactly the color and fabric I wanted. If it's 4-way stretch (trust me, it IS mandatory) I'm buying it!
You are welcome! You can also order swatches from Denver Fabrics, and most often you get a coupon good on a future order.

If you look at the edge of your pattern, it has a stretch measurement guide. Test the fabric length- and width-wise. If it doesn't have enough stretchiness, the fabric will run. It's really important to fit the pattern well before you cut and sew. If you make it too short (girth?), the bodysuit will gap in the back and ride up your tush!
If you bought fabric that isn't quite stretchy enough, go up a size or two. As far as runs go, use a ballpoint needle, which will also help (esp. with "fancy" fabrics)

Anyone remember the wedgie-watches during last years nationals???? Also, I use Kwik-Sew patterns exclusively-guarantees that my customers will have complete coverage on the bottom because of the way the pattern is drafted (esp when you are sewing for little kids-they don't like to show anything!!)

Last tip: use Fray Stop or a bit of clear nail polish on any enclosed/hidden clip points to keep them from running when they stretch. Don't use it on entire seams - it dries scratchy.
I don't clip into the notches or anything-use a pin or a washable marker. I use Fray Stop only on the ends of the stitching.

[sunshinepointe]

Those are excellent tips from both of you, thank you so much. I have issues with my girth which is partly why I'm making my own dress - I measure at a whopping 68 inches in girth so all the dresses I've ever tried have never fit well because I need a medium or large for size and a XXXXXXL for girth 8O

Such a long upper body its absurd :giveup:

I looked at the sites but I'm having a hard time picturing me wearing any of the fabrics seen...I suppose I'll just go with a basic black (there was a nice 4-way with a pretty black flower print) and embellish with some crystals here and there if it turns out to be wearable. A lot of the prints on the sites were....different! Can't go wrong with a solid color though I suppose. I'm not wearing the dress for anything but testing anyway so it doesn't need to be anything fancy.

[doubletoe]

Oh, I'm so glad to see this thread was about making dresses, not about "SEWERS" 8O (Peeeuww!!) When I first saw the title, I did a double-take!

[Skate@Delaware]

Yeah, black is good (boring, but good). You can always accessorize with the sweaters that tie at midriff, gloves, sweaters with crystal zippers, etc......

I made some nice "workout" pants out of power stretch gabardine-feels like leggings but with more tightness in the stretch. Good for on ice as it helps hold my gel pads in place ;)

They are black, but I will be adding a vest that is red and black, as well as some other accessories. I will also make another pair, with a red stripe down the side of the leg.

I also have a long rise, it's only 65.5" but I have a hard time finding stuff that fits "correctly"

If you aren't sure about making stuff in colors or patterns, make some skirts that have the attached panty. I did and they are wonderful! (also more convenient-if you know what I mean)......8O

[sunshinepointe]

Lol...sewers....seamstresses? My mistake - only now do I realize that "sewers" is not the word I was looking for hehehe :halo:

[Bothcoasts]

Oh, I'm so glad to see this thread was about making dresses, not about "SEWERS" 8O (Peeeuww!!) When I first saw the title, I did a double-take!


Me too--I thought that sunshinepointe was mad at Skate@Delaware for something.

How I love the English language!

[aussieskater]

Sunshinepointe, I hear you on the girth issue - boy, do I hear you! :) Sounds like we're the same torso size - I, too, would take a medium to large but for a 68 inch girth. I've found that when making skating dresses, I use the large size (I like lots of butt coverage and no possibility of wedgie ride-up 8O ) and then add 3-4 inches front *and* back to get it long enough.

Like S@D, I only use Kwik-Sew, partly because you get lots of cover across the rear (and the adult ladies are as fussy as the kids, I reckon - at least I am!), and partly because these are the only stretch patterns we can get easily down here.

It's easy enough to add to the girth. I trace the pattern onto cheap non-woven interfacing (it's more durable than tissue and less rigid than the original paper), then simply slice the pattern pieces where marked, add the insert, and sticky-tape the whole together. Whatever you do, *don't* forget to add the extra length to both the front *and* the back...you'll have a mighty funny (and unwearable) dress if you don't.

As for fabric, it's interesting to hear of the American use of "2-way" and "4-way" stretch. Down here, fabric which is "2-way" stretches both across and along the grain; we don't really use the term "4-way" at all. We call fabric which stretches only one way (whether along or across the grain) "one-way stretch".

If you're not very experienced, then you would do well to make sure that you choose fabric which has a minimum 100% stretch one way and minimum 75% stretch the other. (The top edge of the Kwiksew pattern envelope has a guide you can use to measure the stretch of your potential materials.) The reason I say this is that Kwiksew (and I guess most of the other patterns too?) draft for this much stretch, and to use one with less stretch will mean you are going to redraft the pattern... :??

Good luck, have fun and you'll be making beautiful dresses before you know it! :D

[Mrs Redboots]

While I absolutely agree that 4-way stretch is mandatory for the body of a dress, don't forget that you can make loose sleeves and a skirt in a different fabric, like my beloved old green dress:
http://mrs-redboots.sk8rland.com/pictures/annabel2.jpg